Should I get a soil test before treating my lawn

Should I Test My Soil Before Treating My Lawn?

Author: Dianne DeLongchamps

Should I get a soil test before treating my lawn?

Yes. A soil test gives you your lawn’s actual pH, nutrient levels, organic matter percentage, and texture before you apply anything. In Colorado that matters more than most places, because our alkaline soils can hold plenty of a nutrient while keeping it chemically locked away from grass roots, a problem no amount of added product solves.

Here’s what that looks like on a Clean Air Lawn Care route in Fort Collins, Windsor, and Timnath. Nearly every lawn we treat is turf-type tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass in alkaline Front Range soil. Your pH and organic matter shape the plan we build with our custom organic fertilizers and organic soil builders, the fertilizers are non-toxic, rather than the same package going on every property. Luke’s watering baseline holds either way: 1 to 2 inches a week across two to three deep waterings.

If a fertilizer that transformed your neighbor’s lawn did nothing for yours, untested soil is a likely explanation. Front Range soils vary block to block.

Why is my grass yellow if the soil already has iron?

Yellowing grass in Colorado gets blamed on low iron constantly. CSU’s finding is the opposite: “Our soils typically have an adequate supply of iron but, under alkaline conditions, the iron is present in a chemical form that some plants are not able to access, leading to iron deficiencies.”

The iron is there. The pH has it locked.

Our pH really is high. CSU: “In Colorado, many of our soils are alkaline with a pH of 7.0 to 8.3.” Availability starts dropping above 7.5.

You can’t fix a lock by adding more key. At 7.9, more iron buys a temporary color response and an empty bottle. Your pH tells you whether it’s a supply problem or an access problem. Those get handled completely differently.

What does a CSU soil test measure?

CSU’s routine analysis includes:

  • Texture – your clay, silt, and sand fractions, which drive compaction risk and how you should be watering
  • Organic matter percentage – how much your soil can hold onto
  • pH – the access question above
  • Lime content
  • Soluble salts – relevant if anyone’s been heavy-handed with amendments
  • Nitrate nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium
  • Micronutrients

CSU’s CMG GardenNotes #210: “Organic matter holds 10 times or more water and nutrients than sand.” Well-managed western soils run 1 to 5% organic matter by volume. Compacted, unamended landscape soil typically sits at about 1%. If your test comes back near 1%, you’ve found your project. How Do I Fix Compacted Clay Soil Under My Lawn?

What happens if I fertilize without a soil test?

Applying fertilizer, pH amendments, or iron without a baseline is a coin flip with a receipt attached.

Phosphorus is the clearest example. If your soil has enough, more does nothing. You would just be paying for a nutrient the lawn wasn’t short on. Under-apply nitrogen when the real issue is pH-locked iron, and you chase yellowing all season with the wrong product.

A test costs less than a season of that.nches through the real heat, roughly mid-July to mid-August, across two to three deep waterings.

Where do I get a soil test in Northern Colorado?

Ask us and we will complete a soil sample for you. Or the CSU Extension runs the Soil, Water and Plant Testing Laboratory, serving “farmers, homeowners, consultants, government agencies and CSU personnel.” Submission instructions, sample bags, forms, and current pricing are on their site: https://agsci.colostate.edu/soiltestinglab/

Larimer County Extension covers Fort Collins and much of our service area, and can help with sample collection questions.

Collecting a good sample is most of the accuracy. Pull small cores from several spots, mix them in a clean bucket, and submit the composite. One scoop from one corner tells you about that corner.

How often should I retest my soil?

CSU recommends testing “approximately every one to three years to reestablish the baseline,” or sooner when the crop or the soil changes. For a lawn: retest after a renovation, a new install, or a problem you can’t explain. Otherwise read the trend line, not any single year’s numbers.


Soil testing is not the most thrilling part of lawn care. But it’s kept plenty of our clients from spending a season treating the wrong problem. Nearly every lawn we work on here is turf-type tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass sitting in alkaline Front Range soil, and those two facts together decide most of what a test result actually means for you. If you’ve never had yours tested, ask us — we’re glad to point you at the lab or help you read the numbers when they come back.


Clean Air Lawn Care Northern Colorado is owned by Dianne, Paul, and Luke DeLongchamps — a family business serving Fort Collins, Windsor, and Timnath with organic lawn treatments and solar-powered electric equipment.


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